Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Snake Temple and Kuala Lumpur

High on the list of Penang's long-promoted tourist attractions is the Snake Temple. That name alone conjures up exotic mental images of a temple slithering with deadly vipers, cobras and pythons, where you have to be careful where you tread lest one sneak up on you from some nook or cranny. Think Snakes on a Plane, but in a temple.

Unfortunately, the name of the place is a set-up for disappointment if you go there with high expectations. It's only worth going as a curiosity, and only as a quick stop-over on the way to or from the airport, where it's close to. Don't make a special trip out here unless you have absolutely nothing better to do. It's free, at the very least.

The reality is that it's little more than a run-of-the-mill Chinese temple. Snakes? Yes, there are snakes, but only a few.

Snake Temple


I walked into the main sanctuary, and saw nothing unusual: a table in the middle with offerings of fruit and incense, three niches in the back dedicated to different Taoist gods, and a desk where a monk sat quietly. One young worshipper was there; she was performing the usual "bai bai" ritual that the Chinese often do.

There was one major difference from other temples: on the altar in front of the central niche, dedicated to Qingshui Zushi (the same deity that Sanxia's Zushi Temple is dedicated to), were two wicker frames, looking somewhat like trees. Coiled on each of these frames were two or three Wagler's pit vipers (Tropidolaemus wagleri). No other snakes were to be seen in the room.



The snakes are just sitting there... it's claimed that they're doped up on the smoke of the incense. Still, this species is one to sit quietly for long periods of time, striking fast when prey happens to pass by. It's also said that these particular snakes have been de-venomed, but they still have their fangs. Visitors are warned not to disturb them.

Closer!


Closer still!


In an adjacent chamber there are two snake handlers who will try to convince you to have a photo taken with one of three Burmese pythons, charging you nine bucks US for the honor. No thanks...

Behind the temple is a pretty garden, and another sanctuary, this one dedicated to Guanyin. But that's about all there is. Nothing spectacular. I am glad that I visited, though. Curiosity satisfied.

So to the bus stop, and on to the airport. Once I arrived at the airport, they asked me if I wanted to get on an earlier flight. Sure, that would make things easier for me. More daylight time to spend in Kuala Lumpur, searching for the Cheras Road Christian Cemetery.

Long story short, I arrived at KL, took 3 different commuter trains, walked a mile, and arrived at the cemetery. It's huge, and has a special section maintained by the CWGC.



There's also a section dedicated to Henry L. G. Gurney, a former governor of Malaysia who was killed by the Japanese.



Getting there was quite a trip... hot, sweaty, taxing. Now I'm in the air-conditioned comfort of the airport, awaiting a morning flight to Taipei.

That's it! My trip to Malaysia.