One is Mary's Hamburgers, a Taipei institution. It opened in 1979, and is still going strong 30 years later. It's on Zhongshan N. Road, just south of the Taipei American School.
I had a cheeseburger and fries.
That's all for now! Been busy lately!
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
A quick visit to Mary's
The other day I had cause to go to Tienmu, an area in northeastern Taipei that was for a long time known as a Western ghetto. Because of the large population of Westerners there, a number of businesses popped up to cater to them.
One is Mary's Hamburgers, a Taipei institution. It opened in 1979, and is still going strong 30 years later. It's on Zhongshan N. Road, just south of the Taipei American School.
I had a cheeseburger and fries.
That's all for now! Been busy lately!
One is Mary's Hamburgers, a Taipei institution. It opened in 1979, and is still going strong 30 years later. It's on Zhongshan N. Road, just south of the Taipei American School.
I had a cheeseburger and fries.
That's all for now! Been busy lately!
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Yellow Butterfly Valley
The Yellow Butterfly Valley, actually a series of valleys near the Hakka city of Meinong in southern Taiwan, is named after the Lemon Emigrant butterfly (Catopsilia pomona) that congregate in large numbers each summer. But they're not the only butterflies to be found: some 100 out of Taiwan's 400 or so species can be found in these lush valleys.
We drove down Saturday, staying overnight in Tainan at my favorite el-cheapo hotel there, Ing Wang, around the corner from Fort Provintia (an old Dutch fort) and a quick walk to most of the famous downtown historical sites. We arrived at about midnight, and decided to take a midnight stroll around the downtown area, passing by the Jade Emperor Temple, the Confucius Temple, and the newly restored Japanese martial arts academy. Tainan is Taiwan's oldest city, and for most of Taiwan's 400-year history since its colonization it served as the capital. It's a must-see for history buffs.
The Jade Emperor Temple at night
The next day we left bright and early for the valley. On the drive there, along the No. 3 Freeway, we saw quite a few Lemon Emigrants fluttering across the road, dodging vehicles.
We passed through Meinong and drove along a country road into the foothills, passing the Butterfly Temple, and finally arriving at a very narrow road. We got out, and found the heat to be oppressive. But as we walked along a dirt road, we saw increasing numbers of butterflies, particularly the Lemon Emigrant.
The Butterfly Temple
I found the Lemon Emigrant hard to photograph. They're flighty creatures, reluctant to land, and easily disturbed by human presence. When they finally do land, they're barely still for long. By the time I've located them in my viewfinder and autofocus has decided to focus on the butterfly, it's gone. I did manage to take a couple photos.
Female Lemon Emigrant
Male Lemon Emigrant feeding on Lantana camara
This Lemon Pansy (Junonia lemonias aenaria) was much more well-behaved. It sat there a good three minutes as I photographed it. I love the eye spots! The spots are a form of mimicry: they evolved to look like the eyes of a predator, frightening away potential predators or drawing their attention away from the body of the insect.
Lemon Pansy
Come noon, with the sun directly overhead, the numbers of butterflies were decreasing significantly. It was time to go.
As we drove out through the country roads, we came across Guangshan Temple. It turns out the temple has a dormitory where visitors can stay for the night. It would be interesting to tour Taiwan sometime staying only in temples and monasteries.
Here's part of the temple complex:
On the temple grounds was an interesting old Japanese-built schoolhouse, which the caretaker showed us:
We decided that we would make a side-trip to Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan's biggest natural lake, on the drive back to Taipei. I had never visited it before despite living in Taiwan for years. It's renowned for its beauty, but with the hazy air and crappy weather that day, it didn't live up to its potential. Still, I'm glad I had a chance to go there, even if it was only for a couple hours.
Sun Moon Lake
We drove down Saturday, staying overnight in Tainan at my favorite el-cheapo hotel there, Ing Wang, around the corner from Fort Provintia (an old Dutch fort) and a quick walk to most of the famous downtown historical sites. We arrived at about midnight, and decided to take a midnight stroll around the downtown area, passing by the Jade Emperor Temple, the Confucius Temple, and the newly restored Japanese martial arts academy. Tainan is Taiwan's oldest city, and for most of Taiwan's 400-year history since its colonization it served as the capital. It's a must-see for history buffs.
The Jade Emperor Temple at night
The next day we left bright and early for the valley. On the drive there, along the No. 3 Freeway, we saw quite a few Lemon Emigrants fluttering across the road, dodging vehicles.
We passed through Meinong and drove along a country road into the foothills, passing the Butterfly Temple, and finally arriving at a very narrow road. We got out, and found the heat to be oppressive. But as we walked along a dirt road, we saw increasing numbers of butterflies, particularly the Lemon Emigrant.
The Butterfly Temple
I found the Lemon Emigrant hard to photograph. They're flighty creatures, reluctant to land, and easily disturbed by human presence. When they finally do land, they're barely still for long. By the time I've located them in my viewfinder and autofocus has decided to focus on the butterfly, it's gone. I did manage to take a couple photos.
Female Lemon Emigrant
Male Lemon Emigrant feeding on Lantana camara
This Lemon Pansy (Junonia lemonias aenaria) was much more well-behaved. It sat there a good three minutes as I photographed it. I love the eye spots! The spots are a form of mimicry: they evolved to look like the eyes of a predator, frightening away potential predators or drawing their attention away from the body of the insect.
Lemon Pansy
Come noon, with the sun directly overhead, the numbers of butterflies were decreasing significantly. It was time to go.
As we drove out through the country roads, we came across Guangshan Temple. It turns out the temple has a dormitory where visitors can stay for the night. It would be interesting to tour Taiwan sometime staying only in temples and monasteries.
Here's part of the temple complex:
On the temple grounds was an interesting old Japanese-built schoolhouse, which the caretaker showed us:
We decided that we would make a side-trip to Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan's biggest natural lake, on the drive back to Taipei. I had never visited it before despite living in Taiwan for years. It's renowned for its beauty, but with the hazy air and crappy weather that day, it didn't live up to its potential. Still, I'm glad I had a chance to go there, even if it was only for a couple hours.
Sun Moon Lake
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Yushan Conquered
It has gone by many names: Tongku Saveg by the Bunun, Mt. Morrison by 19th century Westerners, Niitakayama by the Japanese during their colonial rule. At 3952 meters (12,966 ft), it's Yushan (meaning Jade Mountain), Taiwan's tallest peak. Normally visited by about 100 people a day, the peak saw only three visitors on June 26, 2009: Robert, Kitty and me.
Each day, around 1000 people apply for a permit to hike this mountain, but only around 120 a day receive permission. We had tried several times, and this time we finally got accepted. It's essentially luck of the draw. And we were lucky.
The four of us--Robert, Kitty, Ringo and me--were set to hike up on Thursday the 24th, stay overnight at the Paiyun Lodge, then hike to the peak on Friday, then hike back down on Saturday. As the day of departure approached, a typhoon threatened to ruin our trip. But we decided to keep close tabs on weather updates and the latest advice of park staff. Our vigilance paid off: some groups of hikers canceled their plans, and others, who arrived at the lodge the same day we did, decided to go to the peak the same day. This meant that if our group made the ascent on the planned day, we would be the only visitors to the peak the entire day.
The hike up from the trailhead was relatively easy for the moderately experienced hiker like me... easier than Mt. Kinabalu in Borneo (which, though not technically difficult, is a relentless uphill climb) and certainly easier than Beidawushan in southern Taiwan (which includes many technical sections, such as rope climbs up short cliffs). The trail has numerous level stretches and some downhill areas, and the uphill slopes are for the most part quite gentle.
The Grand Precipice, the bed of an ancient ocean
Unfortunately, despite the relative ease of the 8.5km hike to the lodge, Ringo was inexperienced as a hiker and was suffering from some stomach problems. Her condition was exacerbated by the exercise and altitude, making her progress very slow. But despite this, we arrived at the lodge before sunset. (We had a room designed for 16 people mostly to ourselves.)
Paiyun Lodge
Funny sign
Our attempt to get to the peak the next day was now contingent on the next morning's weather report. Fortunately, the typhoon was shifting its course away from Taiwan, clearing our way to climb to the peak. Our sick friend decided to stay at the lodge and take it easy. So three of us, Robert, Kitty and I, set out at 8:00am to reach the peak.
The hike up was spectacular. It took about 2 hours and 40 minutes to reach the top, including breaks. There was a long series of switchbacks which soon emerged from the tree-line and traversed a large scree field. Then at the top of the scree field the trail got rockier and steeper, aided with chains and even a "wind tunnel". Overall, the hike was surprisingly easy; the hardest part was the last 200 meters, which required the use of all four limbs to climb to the top.
Crossing the scree field
The "wind tunnel" (built to protect this hazardous section from falling rocks)
A view of the southern ridge
The final scramble to the peak (which can be seen on the upper right)
Kitty and Robert on the peak
We made it, finally! What a rush! We were standing on the peak of Yushan! And as it turned out: we were the only three people to visit the peak the entirety of Friday, June 26, 2009!
Then we climbed into a sheltered area for a picnic. We ended up taking a nap there for about 15 minutes! To my surprise, I could get cell phone reception, and I texted most of the people in my phone's memory. This is when I received responses, including the news that Michael Jackson had just died. Here we were, miles from civilization on the top of Taiwan's tallest mountain. News like this sure travels to the remotest places.
At about noon, we headed back down.
It was getting cloudy and there was some threatening looking weather headed our way. We hiked back down, and just as we arrived at the lodge, it started pouring rain. We lucked out again! Only one problem: the sole fell off my hiking boot.
The next day, we were greeted with absolutely beautiful weather for the hike back down. With the "lost sole" secured to my boot with gauze bandages, I trekked with the others back to the trailhead.
On the way down, we kept hearing a bird that made an "oo-oo" sound. Robert related a story to us about the bird: he was once with a group hiking across Taiwan with the aid of some Bunun porters. He heard the bird, and asked one of the Aboriginal tribesmen, "What's the bird making the 'oo-oo' sound?" The man replied, "That's the oo-oo bird."
There was just one other thing we had to be concerned about: Robert wanted to arrive at the trailhead before noon in order to meet some butterfly researchers there. Three hours and 45 minutes later, he and Kitty arrived at the trailhead in ample time to meet them. Twenty minutes later, I arrived there with Ringo, who was feeling much better, but was still struggling with the trail.
The final stretch. Robert and Kitty are crossing
the top of the landslide in the center of the photo.
Robert catching butterflies
At the car, we unloaded our stuff. Then we cleaned ourselves off and some of us changed into fresh clean clothes for the drive home. The weather on the way back was so beautiful and the air was so clear that the views on the drive back were stunning! Even the Gukeng Rest Area looked gorgeous!
Each day, around 1000 people apply for a permit to hike this mountain, but only around 120 a day receive permission. We had tried several times, and this time we finally got accepted. It's essentially luck of the draw. And we were lucky.
The four of us--Robert, Kitty, Ringo and me--were set to hike up on Thursday the 24th, stay overnight at the Paiyun Lodge, then hike to the peak on Friday, then hike back down on Saturday. As the day of departure approached, a typhoon threatened to ruin our trip. But we decided to keep close tabs on weather updates and the latest advice of park staff. Our vigilance paid off: some groups of hikers canceled their plans, and others, who arrived at the lodge the same day we did, decided to go to the peak the same day. This meant that if our group made the ascent on the planned day, we would be the only visitors to the peak the entire day.
The hike up from the trailhead was relatively easy for the moderately experienced hiker like me... easier than Mt. Kinabalu in Borneo (which, though not technically difficult, is a relentless uphill climb) and certainly easier than Beidawushan in southern Taiwan (which includes many technical sections, such as rope climbs up short cliffs). The trail has numerous level stretches and some downhill areas, and the uphill slopes are for the most part quite gentle.
The Grand Precipice, the bed of an ancient ocean
Unfortunately, despite the relative ease of the 8.5km hike to the lodge, Ringo was inexperienced as a hiker and was suffering from some stomach problems. Her condition was exacerbated by the exercise and altitude, making her progress very slow. But despite this, we arrived at the lodge before sunset. (We had a room designed for 16 people mostly to ourselves.)
Paiyun Lodge
Funny sign
Our attempt to get to the peak the next day was now contingent on the next morning's weather report. Fortunately, the typhoon was shifting its course away from Taiwan, clearing our way to climb to the peak. Our sick friend decided to stay at the lodge and take it easy. So three of us, Robert, Kitty and I, set out at 8:00am to reach the peak.
The hike up was spectacular. It took about 2 hours and 40 minutes to reach the top, including breaks. There was a long series of switchbacks which soon emerged from the tree-line and traversed a large scree field. Then at the top of the scree field the trail got rockier and steeper, aided with chains and even a "wind tunnel". Overall, the hike was surprisingly easy; the hardest part was the last 200 meters, which required the use of all four limbs to climb to the top.
Crossing the scree field
The "wind tunnel" (built to protect this hazardous section from falling rocks)
A view of the southern ridge
The final scramble to the peak (which can be seen on the upper right)
Kitty and Robert on the peak
We made it, finally! What a rush! We were standing on the peak of Yushan! And as it turned out: we were the only three people to visit the peak the entirety of Friday, June 26, 2009!
Then we climbed into a sheltered area for a picnic. We ended up taking a nap there for about 15 minutes! To my surprise, I could get cell phone reception, and I texted most of the people in my phone's memory. This is when I received responses, including the news that Michael Jackson had just died. Here we were, miles from civilization on the top of Taiwan's tallest mountain. News like this sure travels to the remotest places.
At about noon, we headed back down.
It was getting cloudy and there was some threatening looking weather headed our way. We hiked back down, and just as we arrived at the lodge, it started pouring rain. We lucked out again! Only one problem: the sole fell off my hiking boot.
The next day, we were greeted with absolutely beautiful weather for the hike back down. With the "lost sole" secured to my boot with gauze bandages, I trekked with the others back to the trailhead.
On the way down, we kept hearing a bird that made an "oo-oo" sound. Robert related a story to us about the bird: he was once with a group hiking across Taiwan with the aid of some Bunun porters. He heard the bird, and asked one of the Aboriginal tribesmen, "What's the bird making the 'oo-oo' sound?" The man replied, "That's the oo-oo bird."
There was just one other thing we had to be concerned about: Robert wanted to arrive at the trailhead before noon in order to meet some butterfly researchers there. Three hours and 45 minutes later, he and Kitty arrived at the trailhead in ample time to meet them. Twenty minutes later, I arrived there with Ringo, who was feeling much better, but was still struggling with the trail.
The final stretch. Robert and Kitty are crossing
the top of the landslide in the center of the photo.
Robert catching butterflies
At the car, we unloaded our stuff. Then we cleaned ourselves off and some of us changed into fresh clean clothes for the drive home. The weather on the way back was so beautiful and the air was so clear that the views on the drive back were stunning! Even the Gukeng Rest Area looked gorgeous!
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Taipei Then and Now (Redux)
Funny...now I have all the time in the world, but it's only now that I'm updating my blog. With my workload down for the summer, I've now had time to devote to a number of pet projects on my long to-do list, and my blog unfortunately is not at the top of the list.
Anyway, I have a big backlog, and this week I'll be doing some catching up.
I'll start out simply.
Remember last fall's Taipei Then and Now posts? Well, they finally took the big plastic covers off the Land Bank Building. Here it is:
Then
Now
That's all for now. More blogging coming up this week!
Anyway, I have a big backlog, and this week I'll be doing some catching up.
I'll start out simply.
Remember last fall's Taipei Then and Now posts? Well, they finally took the big plastic covers off the Land Bank Building. Here it is:
Then
Now
That's all for now. More blogging coming up this week!
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Update at last
OK, finally I have some free time to post the follow-up to the Penang trip.
I solved the virus problem after returning home, and fortunately I didn't lose any photos. The trip was great...fantastic food, great things to see and do, and plenty of graving destinations. I hope to return sometime soon and explore the area more, including a longer stay in Taiping and a visit to Ipoh.
Anyway, here are some photos:
An old building with a Sacred Fig tree growing on it
The majestic E&O, a storied hotel where Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward and other celebrities once stayed
A street scene, with a trishaw
Another view of Kek Lok Si
The ferry between George Town and Butterworth. (George Town was named after King George III...yes, the Mad King who drove the Americans to revolution.)
A Chinese temple I happened across on the way to the Jewish Cemetery.
An old 19th century building in Taiping
Overall, my trip to Penang was enjoyable and productive. I shall return...
I solved the virus problem after returning home, and fortunately I didn't lose any photos. The trip was great...fantastic food, great things to see and do, and plenty of graving destinations. I hope to return sometime soon and explore the area more, including a longer stay in Taiping and a visit to Ipoh.
Anyway, here are some photos:
An old building with a Sacred Fig tree growing on it
The majestic E&O, a storied hotel where Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward and other celebrities once stayed
A street scene, with a trishaw
Another view of Kek Lok Si
The ferry between George Town and Butterworth. (George Town was named after King George III...yes, the Mad King who drove the Americans to revolution.)
A Chinese temple I happened across on the way to the Jewish Cemetery.
An old 19th century building in Taiping
The "Oasiss Hotel". This used to be the Swiss Hotel, an old backpacker's standby. It's apparently under new management, and a new structure occupies much of the cool old courtyard where guests used to hang out, drink, and chat. It's still a backpacker's hostel now, but it's no longer as cool as it once was. Too bad...
Overall, my trip to Penang was enjoyable and productive. I shall return...
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Back in Taiwan!
I'm back!
Well, sorry I haven't been as diligent as I had hoped in keeping you guys posted every day. My camera's SD card picked up a virus, so I've been battling this virus for a while. (Note to self: always set the card to "write protect" when connecting it to a strange PC!) I was worried that I might lose all my photos, but they're all safe and the virus is gone (I hope).
Anyway, on my last full day in Penang, I started out by returning to the Protestant Cemetery and taking photos in case I missed any from my previous visits. I was surprised to see a photographer, a bride in a wedding dress, and a few assistants there taking wedding photos! (Didn't see the groom there, though...) I might imagine Westerners doing so, but not Asians, who are often quite superstitious about cemeteries and death.
At one point while photographing graves, I realized my Cambodian krama (the red-and-white cotton scarf I use to keep the sun off my neck and the sweat off my brow) was missing. I went back to look for it, and found it on a grave. I realized that I had taken photos of all the graves around it, except for that particular one. It was almost as if the person's spirit had pulled the scarf off me, saying, "Hey, you forgot to photograph my grave!" Creepy, huh?
Afterwards, I decided to go to the storied Eastern & Oriental Hotel, the fanciest in Penang, which is just around the corner from the cemetery, to splurge a little with a cocktail in the bar to celebrate a successful trip. Sitting in air-conditioned comfort in the lap of luxury as I sheltered from the noonday heat sipping a cocktail was a nice way to pass some time.
Then I walked around town a little more. Here's the Penang Clock Tower:
The walls of Fort Cornwallis:
The Guanyin Temple:
Then back to the hostel. And the next day: to the airport and home.
Soon I'll make another post showing some of my favorite pictures that I have left out.
Well, sorry I haven't been as diligent as I had hoped in keeping you guys posted every day. My camera's SD card picked up a virus, so I've been battling this virus for a while. (Note to self: always set the card to "write protect" when connecting it to a strange PC!) I was worried that I might lose all my photos, but they're all safe and the virus is gone (I hope).
Anyway, on my last full day in Penang, I started out by returning to the Protestant Cemetery and taking photos in case I missed any from my previous visits. I was surprised to see a photographer, a bride in a wedding dress, and a few assistants there taking wedding photos! (Didn't see the groom there, though...) I might imagine Westerners doing so, but not Asians, who are often quite superstitious about cemeteries and death.
At one point while photographing graves, I realized my Cambodian krama (the red-and-white cotton scarf I use to keep the sun off my neck and the sweat off my brow) was missing. I went back to look for it, and found it on a grave. I realized that I had taken photos of all the graves around it, except for that particular one. It was almost as if the person's spirit had pulled the scarf off me, saying, "Hey, you forgot to photograph my grave!" Creepy, huh?
Afterwards, I decided to go to the storied Eastern & Oriental Hotel, the fanciest in Penang, which is just around the corner from the cemetery, to splurge a little with a cocktail in the bar to celebrate a successful trip. Sitting in air-conditioned comfort in the lap of luxury as I sheltered from the noonday heat sipping a cocktail was a nice way to pass some time.
Then I walked around town a little more. Here's the Penang Clock Tower:
The walls of Fort Cornwallis:
The Guanyin Temple:
Then back to the hostel. And the next day: to the airport and home.
Soon I'll make another post showing some of my favorite pictures that I have left out.
Monday, March 16, 2009
Graving in Taiping
Today I went to Taiping, a city about 88 km away from Penang, to visit the Taiping War Cemetery. This cemetery is a Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery honoring WWII soildiers. While in Taiping, sitting on the bus, I happened to pass by another cemetery, Taiping Christian Cemetery, whose location had been eluding me until today...none of the online descriptions of its location were detailed enough, and some were dead wrong. So now I've been able to pinpoint its GPS coordinates for the Find A Grave site! So today's trip paid off big-time. And the entire round trip by bus and ferry cost me all of US$5.17!
Yeah, I know this probably bores you (unless you happen to be a Find A Grave member, that is).
Anyway, I'm too beat to post any pictures now...kind of in a hurry to go relax for the evening, perhaps drink a beer.
Will post more later.
OK, I'm back.
Here's Taiping War Cemetery:
And the elusive Taiping Christian Cemetery:
Yeah, I know this probably bores you (unless you happen to be a Find A Grave member, that is).
Anyway, I'm too beat to post any pictures now...kind of in a hurry to go relax for the evening, perhaps drink a beer.
Will post more later.
OK, I'm back.
Here's Taiping War Cemetery:
And the elusive Taiping Christian Cemetery:
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