Each day, around 1000 people apply for a permit to hike this mountain, but only around 120 a day receive permission. We had tried several times, and this time we finally got accepted. It's essentially luck of the draw. And we were lucky.
The four of us--Robert, Kitty, Ringo and me--were set to hike up on Thursday the 24th, stay overnight at the Paiyun Lodge, then hike to the peak on Friday, then hike back down on Saturday. As the day of departure approached, a typhoon threatened to ruin our trip. But we decided to keep close tabs on weather updates and the latest advice of park staff. Our vigilance paid off: some groups of hikers canceled their plans, and others, who arrived at the lodge the same day we did, decided to go to the peak the same day. This meant that if our group made the ascent on the planned day, we would be the only visitors to the peak the entire day.
The hike up from the trailhead was relatively easy for the moderately experienced hiker like me... easier than Mt. Kinabalu in Borneo (which, though not technically difficult, is a relentless uphill climb) and certainly easier than Beidawushan in southern Taiwan (which includes many technical sections, such as rope climbs up short cliffs). The trail has numerous level stretches and some downhill areas, and the uphill slopes are for the most part quite gentle.
The Grand Precipice, the bed of an ancient ocean
Unfortunately, despite the relative ease of the 8.5km hike to the lodge, Ringo was inexperienced as a hiker and was suffering from some stomach problems. Her condition was exacerbated by the exercise and altitude, making her progress very slow. But despite this, we arrived at the lodge before sunset. (We had a room designed for 16 people mostly to ourselves.)
Paiyun Lodge
Funny sign
Our attempt to get to the peak the next day was now contingent on the next morning's weather report. Fortunately, the typhoon was shifting its course away from Taiwan, clearing our way to climb to the peak. Our sick friend decided to stay at the lodge and take it easy. So three of us, Robert, Kitty and I, set out at 8:00am to reach the peak.
The hike up was spectacular. It took about 2 hours and 40 minutes to reach the top, including breaks. There was a long series of switchbacks which soon emerged from the tree-line and traversed a large scree field. Then at the top of the scree field the trail got rockier and steeper, aided with chains and even a "wind tunnel". Overall, the hike was surprisingly easy; the hardest part was the last 200 meters, which required the use of all four limbs to climb to the top.
Crossing the scree field
The "wind tunnel" (built to protect this hazardous section from falling rocks)
A view of the southern ridge
The final scramble to the peak (which can be seen on the upper right)
Kitty and Robert on the peak
We made it, finally! What a rush! We were standing on the peak of Yushan! And as it turned out: we were the only three people to visit the peak the entirety of Friday, June 26, 2009!
Then we climbed into a sheltered area for a picnic. We ended up taking a nap there for about 15 minutes! To my surprise, I could get cell phone reception, and I texted most of the people in my phone's memory. This is when I received responses, including the news that Michael Jackson had just died. Here we were, miles from civilization on the top of Taiwan's tallest mountain. News like this sure travels to the remotest places.
At about noon, we headed back down.
It was getting cloudy and there was some threatening looking weather headed our way. We hiked back down, and just as we arrived at the lodge, it started pouring rain. We lucked out again! Only one problem: the sole fell off my hiking boot.
The next day, we were greeted with absolutely beautiful weather for the hike back down. With the "lost sole" secured to my boot with gauze bandages, I trekked with the others back to the trailhead.
On the way down, we kept hearing a bird that made an "oo-oo" sound. Robert related a story to us about the bird: he was once with a group hiking across Taiwan with the aid of some Bunun porters. He heard the bird, and asked one of the Aboriginal tribesmen, "What's the bird making the 'oo-oo' sound?" The man replied, "That's the oo-oo bird."
There was just one other thing we had to be concerned about: Robert wanted to arrive at the trailhead before noon in order to meet some butterfly researchers there. Three hours and 45 minutes later, he and Kitty arrived at the trailhead in ample time to meet them. Twenty minutes later, I arrived there with Ringo, who was feeling much better, but was still struggling with the trail.
The final stretch. Robert and Kitty are crossing
the top of the landslide in the center of the photo.
Robert catching butterflies
At the car, we unloaded our stuff. Then we cleaned ourselves off and some of us changed into fresh clean clothes for the drive home. The weather on the way back was so beautiful and the air was so clear that the views on the drive back were stunning! Even the Gukeng Rest Area looked gorgeous!
